R.I.P. Two-dogs

Karissa and I were lucky to meet a local guy in our first week on the Big Island, and ran into him literally every day for the better part of the next month and a half. Gary Poretsky, known by his friends as Gary Two-dogs (not to be confused with the other Gary, Gary No-dogs), had been on the island for most of his life... and what a life he'd lived. Sailing from island to island, until he'd settled on the Big Island, he'd bought a parcel of land out at Sea View before they'd even had running water out there (Sea View is now one of the nicer places to live on the east side of the island, complete with electricity and county water). Always quick with a story, a joke, and a laugh that literally filled whole rooms, loud and full of bass, Gary was something rare, raised in a Jewish family, he was a born-again Christian who held to the belief of love.

The last time Karissa and I saw Gary was the day before he was leaving for Thailand. The week before he'd been complaining to us about a major toothache, which just kept getting worse... eventually leading to him going to a dentist in Hilo and being told that he'd need an entire tooth removed, another two heavily drilled, and oral surgery that would have cost him more then most Hawaiians make in a year. For the population on the west coast that lacks dental insurance (which is the majority in Hawaii), Thailand is considered the safest option. Bangkok and Chiang Mai have western trained and equipped doctors of all sorts... except with the current exchange rate and the lack of back-breaking insurance costs, they can operate in a fee range that's viable, while being infinitely safer then the Mexican option...

While traveling in Chiang Mai after his surgery, Gary was shot three times at a bar by a mentally unstable Australian man. He died before reaching the hospital... and I can only pray that he felt no pain.

The Puna population will miss Gary, his funeral service is expected to overflow wherever it is, as he was loved by both sides of the heated debate between natives and locals. We didn't get a chance to meet his mother before we left the island, but we did meet up with a number of Gary's friends for a candle-light vigil on the Sea View lawn. His mother passed on word through Uncle Manu that she was bringing his ashes back and that Gary would be buried or scattered on the island he'd adopted and loved.

Even though I would probably have never seen Gary again after this trip, having someone so caring and who lived So well taken from this world is a tragedy, and I'm sorry no one will ever hear him explain what makes someone a Haole, or the stories of the Island's creation, or the plight of the native children...

I ka 'ôlelo no ke ola, i ka 'ôlelo no ka make.

In the language or word is life, in the language or word is death.

Champagne ponds

Now this was an experience! Perhaps even one of my favorite from the big island (although nothing may ever top our visit to the lava...) Heidi and Briana brought us there as a surprise. They wouldn't tell us where we were going-- just to bring snorkels, wear bathing suits, and bring towels. Well I know I don't need to say this but these girls rock! I doubt that we would have ever been able to find them on our own.

The champagne ponds are a series of volcanically heated ponds with an outlet to the ocean so the water is BEAUTIFUL. Now the big trick here is that they are on the other side of a gated community called Kapoho hiding behind a seemingly empty bit of the island. In order to access these wonders of the big island one must park on the side of the road before the gate, and walk through the community.

Even the community is stunning, the plumeria, hybiscus, and many assorted versions of palm trees are just amazing to walk by. It seems more a blessing to have to walk the near mile or so to get to the ponds.




This is apparently what happens to some palms that go untrimmed..-- so cool!
Plumeria!
Now when you finally reach the ponds there is a tiny public access path behind a house. This brings you to another tiny path with water on either side that leads to a landing with a ladder where you can jump in. The water is warm, maybe a few degrees above body temperature and has currents of cool water running through it. There are apparently 2 resident sea turtles that we unfortunately missed, as well as a whole slew of fish; clown fish, angel fish, eels, and tiny minnows among others that we did get to see. The water here is amazingly clear-- there is really something miraculous about this place.

Hamakua or bust

Waipio Valley, the Hawaiian Valley of Kings. It was from here that the rulers of the Big Island came for generations, and today it is the last place to find the traditions of the island... assuming you can get to it.

Karissa and I took the ride along the Hamakua coast until the end of the road. Only 12 miles (as the crow flies) separate the end of 240 to the dirt road that leads up into Hawi, however those miles don't take into account the rise and fall of the 10 valleys from Waipio to Kupenau, each one a climb from near sea level to between 2 and 3 thousand feet. The only ways down into the valley are by foot or ATV, with the ATVs being strictly controlled by the local populace and county officials... needless to say, we weren't on the short list of people approved for their use. A group of people staying at the Hostel did however take the 4 day trek into the valley (1 day to the river, one day to the far end of the valley, and then returning), with two of them continuing along the Z-trail up and into the next valley.

Just to the left of the picture on the right is a waterfall, the largest on the island at 1400 feet, Hi'ilawe Falls, whose pools at the base are considered to be the only "clean" water in the valley, where irrigation runs from, and to where hikers need to head in order to resupply on water for the day (ofcourse, boiling or other treatment is required).

On the west side of Waipio Valley, the Z-trail climbs you up the 2000+ foot cliffside to the entrance of Waimanu Valley. The climb is apparently a trip-killer, considered by the Sierra club to be the hardest hike on the Big Island. Because Waipio is still populated (although by a native populace that is less then happy to have hikers coming through) there're some possibilities of food and water there, once across into Waimanu though, the traveler is on his own. Our friends who continued the hike, Kenny and Paul, were by this point foraging for as much of their daily nourishment as possible, and the Valleys were quick to deliver, however before they could complete their climb into the next valley, a medical emergency (a wicked slice to Kenny's knee while he was dropping coconuts from the top of a palm) ended with them being airlifted to Kona. A point I may have missed, Kenny is quite literally a professional, an eco-tourism guide who, should he be fully rehabbed, will be leading a group through the central pacific islands this summer. There's a reason Karissa and I didn't attempt that trail.

On the drive up the coast we took our time doing the sightseeing routine, and in our travels ended up on one of the peninsulas stretched out into the pacific. A few years ago the entire peninsula, then entirely jungle and scrub plain, was bought by a developer, now carved (quite literally, we got to see some of the dynamite split roadways) into parcels, the land is being sold by the developer for agriculture (who says Happy Cows come from California), resorts, McMansion lots and other goods... price of the largest lot (86 acres running along the entire eastern facing shoreline) is a cool $2.1 million. I give it a few months before Hilton, Marriot or some other buys it up... the views from the private (whoops, I mean unmarked) road were of the pacific leading all the way to just catching the tip of Hilo. If only I had that sort of cash lying around... anyone care to finance an eco/creative resort?

Just a few more flower photos

Well maybe just a little more than a few-- Happy Spring!

Akatsuka Orchid

While heading back from Volcano Village towards Puna Karissa and I passed by an orchid grower that had bus upon bus stopped outside. While normally a bevy of buses would be a sign to us to avoid the tourist trap at all costs, in this case, we figured we had nothing better to do then to wander around seeing things, so in we went, and it was well worth the price of admission (free).

Inside the warehouse that Akatsuka Orchids uses to house their flowering and ready to sell orchids were row upon row of some of the most delicate flowers I'd ever seen. Beyond where we were allowed to go were further rows of greenhouses, each the size of the warehouse we were already in, and all packed with their carefully cross-bred plants. Akatsuka is one of the premier breeders of orchids, having in their collection the near-perfect Volcano Queen. This plant, which flowers for a total of 2 months out of the year, is still the highest rated orchid to be bred in Hawaii, and is the basis for a number of their amazing spindly blooms. No matter how much I type about these flowers though, the pictures will do a better job.













For sale there, beyond the incredible selection of every family of orchid imaginable were various different indigenous plants, from the Ti tree to plumeria. Most interesting to me atleast (while Karissa was wandering about adding almost a gigabyte of stock photography to her collection) were a collection of air-plants. These are various plants that, due to the high humidity found in parts of Hawaii, are capable of living with their roots entirely exposed to air, as if to demonstrate this, the entire collection was suspended at eye level, the roots dangling inches from the floor. Kinda reminds you about the climate that we've been living in.

Volcano (the village)

On the south side of the big island there is a little village called Volcano. The air quality tends to be a little rough here from the vog (volcanic air pollution). Despite this, there is a very active group of artists and creative studios in this one little village.

We visited some amazing galleries. One was a glass gallery and studio that worked in an extraordinary palette-- vibrant greens, oranges, reds, purples, magentas, and turquoise.

The next Gallery was a compilation of many different artists called Volcano Garden Arts. It was run by a rather obnoxious man who had fabulous taste. Inside ran the gamut from shadow box collages, meditating cats, and exquisite paintings. Outside was the real treasure though. Behind the gallery was a small tented structure holding garden ornaments and small statues, and behind that were some rather interesting gardens.The featured exhibit was a clearing in pine trees the size of a house. It was really very serene in there.

Beyond that there were a few other little garden spots, but this one really amused me the most.They are little men in a circle with the most disgruntled looks on their faces. It made me laugh out loud when I saw it.

Akaka Falls is the tallest waterfall on the eastern side of the Big Island. At abit over 400 feet, the water that comes cascading over the side is thunderous, even from about a football field away. Unfortunatly, the second set of waterfalls that occur just downstream from the major falls were closed when we visited (they were re-pouring the walkway), however the hike out to the falls was still gorgeous, even if abit shorter then the route we'd intended to take.

On the way there, you cross over a small stream that feeds into the river below the falls. Bamboo grows plentifully there, keeping the stream hidden until right before you come upon it. Quite a sight and we ended up having to stand behind a pack of Japanese tourists who were taking turns documenting their own trip. Their guide was quite helpful, and Karissa and I picked up some info following behind them, even if my Japanese is rusty at best...

The falls themselves are breathtaking. The cave behind the waterfall is much larger then it looks in the picture, with mist constantly swirling behind it... to me atleast, this was what I was expecting when going to find a true tropical fall. Ofcourse, nobody is allowed to go swimming under there, not just due to it being part of a county owned forest preserve, but also due to the relatively frequent rocks that you can watch tumble from the heights. Getting hit with one of those would certainly be a vacation ender.